- The simpler we make things, the purer the experience -

SHOW PHOTO SHOW SITE

Mount Hunter

Projecting the D10 Zebra in the ZOO - Sallanches

First Dutch Ascent of the Moonflower Buttress

"One of the 'Big Three' in the Alaska Range, Mount Hunter (14,570 ft, 4496m) is considered the most difficult fourteener in North America and perhaps in the world. For what Mount Hunter lacks in Height compared to its taller neighbours, it makes up bulk and complexity. The North Buttress is the technical showpiece on Mount Hunter and it is considered a world class climbing objective. For even the even the best“s worlds climbers an ascent is a career defining achievement" - Joe Puryear, Alaska Climbing, Supertopo –

Different horizons preparing for the green fields. A long technical route on a relatively small mountain. We will be traveling to Mount Hunter in the Alaska Range at the end of April. Wanting to attempt the North or Moonflower Buttress. The route (Bibler,Klewin) has a length of 1850 meters and is graded Alaska VI, 5.8, A2, M5, AI6. We will spend a little less than four weeks on the glacier to acclimatize and attempt the route.

alt 

The North Buttress of Mount Hunter

A small team, just the two of us. It has been a great winter preparing for this trip to Alaska with Roeland van Oss. I have been able to climb quite a few alpine routes, got a good amount of ice climbing in including Repentance (WI6). Red pointed my D10 project and did a bulk of ski tours to train the cardio and to also complete my list for the mountain guide training. In June I can do the first of the entry exams.
 
"The soaring tower stands prominent above Katilthna Base camp. Even an untrained eye may notice the thin ribbons of ice intertwining down sheer granite cliff bands and buttresses. These are the natural passage ways that allow modern alpinists to ascend the intimidating buttress. The sheer 1200 meter granite buttress replete with difficult ice, rock, mixed and aid climbing sees only a few attempts every season. The buttress does not succumb easily and despite some good attempts no one climbed to the buttress top from 2002 to 2005. " - Joe Puryear, Alaska Climbing, Supertopo –
 
Silenced by the night. We did it! Roeland and I  have climbed the North Buttress of Mount Hunter via the Moonflower route (Bibler & Klewin ), topping out just above the technical difficulties. From May 21st to 23rd we spend 76 hours for the total round trip from base camp with 2 bivouacs in the face on the first and the third ice field. We did not continue to the top of Mount Hunter due to dubious weather conditions in the last 24 hours, snow and heavy clouds.  
 
“Sometimes you just have to do things” -Scott Jurek-